How To Winterize Volvo Penta 4.3
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Winterizing my Gunkhole - 4.3 GL volvo penta? | Register | FAQ | Sponsor Forums | Calendar |
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| #1 | |||
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| I want to do this myself rather than pay 400.00 for someone else to practise it. I have researched the process and watched a few youtube videos. It doesnt look hard to practise. Fog carb, fill gas tank and put fuel stablizer in tank, remove iv plugs from cake to drain water, remove hoses to drain water, tilt leg down to bleed water....done. Did I miss anything? Do you guys do anything more to the lower leg...to bleed water. Any info would be appreciated...thx guys. |
09-09-2014, 01:23 PM 
Winterizing my Boat - 4.3 GL volvo penta? 
| #2 | |||
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| Merely brand sure your lower leg doesn't have water in information technology with the oil. |
| #3 | |||
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| How do you ck for that? Is at that place a screw plug that can exist removed so that you tin can come across if the oil has water? I'm guessing in that location is and that you take to loosen it and sentry for water as the oil flows out. And if in that location is no water, merely tighten the screw plug....correct? |
| #4 | |||
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| Lower leg will have a make full and bleed screw. I always bleed and refill with fresh lube while winterizing. or y'all can undo the lower spiral (drain) with the upper screw (fill) closed to see if you accept water mixing with the oil. Depending on your engine you may likewise have drains in the block and manifolds. I leave mine open after filling with RV antifreeze. Bounce sheets in the engine compartment keeps the critters out. |
| #5 | |||
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| The lower hole is the bleed & as well the fill up when refilling with oil. When refilling pump oil in lower hole with upper plug removed, oil comes out upper hole when filled to proper level. |
| #half-dozen | ||||
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| Volvo Pentas and Mercs for that affair have a nasty habit of splitting due to the water in the sand that you can never become out, picked up when yous go shut to the beach and describe sand in through the impeller. I ever make sure I leave a good amount of antifreeze in the system after draining the water, and air drying in a heated garage with all hoses off for 2 weeks. __________________ Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck |
| #seven | |||
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| OP: good job on the research. I change all my oils and plugs every twelvemonth regardless. Allow oil and engine oil that is. I'll check my aft simply it's usually fine. Add together one more step to what you've mentioned: pour rv antifreeze into the prop itself and record it upwards to keep moisture out. YouTube leg oil and engine oil change. It's a breeze and your on your way |
| #8 | ||||
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| My gunkhole is manner to big an investment to risk doing something wrong. Find a good place and pay the money. Only picked mine upwardly, 280 bucks and i know it'due south done professionally. |
| #9 | |||
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| I owned the exact aforementioned engine/drive philharmonic for several years. The only boosted process I did was reinstall all the plugs and keep to make full the engine and unit with RV antifreeze. It was worth a few actress dollars for the peace of mind knowing all the water was forced out of the organisation. |
| #10 | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted by nast70 My boat is way to large an investment to risk doing something wrong. Notice a adept identify and pay the coin. Simply picked mine up, 280 bucks and i know it's done professionally. Do y'all hire a pro to drive information technology also |
| #eleven | ||||
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| That would be a helm. I am resposible for everyone in my boat, so that would be me. So yes I am a pro. __________________ |
| #12 | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted by nast70 My boat is fashion to big an investment to chance doing something wrong. Find a adept identify and pay the money. Just picked mine upward, 280 bucks and i know it'south done professionally. If all a guy did was buy an $eighteen jug of rv antifreeze and a $14 pair of muffs it takes literally 15 minutes... it'due south pretty fool proof. But to each his ain. By paying the pros I believe they assume liability as well if the block cracks. |
| #13 | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted past curt7mm How exercise you ck for that? Is there a screw plug that can exist removed so that you can run across if the oil has water? I'k guessing there is and that you have to loosen it and lookout for water as the oil flows out. And if in that location is no water, just tighten the spiral plug....correct? Only modify the leg oil, peace of mind, actress ten minutes and 10 dollars. Plus the bottom plug should be magnetized, so you will meet if there are any metal shavings. Last edited past Bigdad013; 09-10-2014 at 09:34 AM. |
| #14 | ||||
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| My gunkhole also has a live well. I cycle the pump with a tube in a bottle of rv anti freeze, also dump some in the bilge and cycle the pump in that location too. __________________ |
| #fifteen | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted by nast70 My boat also has a live well. I cycle the pump with a tube in a bottle of rv anti freeze, also dump some in the bilge and cycle the pump there too. Excellent advice in that location |
| #sixteen | |||
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| I have winterized before...here is what I did in the past... |
| #17 | |||
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| I use rv antifreeze as well I run information technology through before pulling whatsoever plugs. Then pull the plugs and leave them out. Yous volition accept a plug on the stop of each exhaust manifolds. And a plug below the starter and ane on the opposite side in aforementioned location and one plug in the top of the block by your alternator bracket its larger than the residuum. Information technology's the same size as your boat plug. These are all you water jackets there should exist 4 pocket-size and one big. Drain your tranny fluid and and then shop information technology over winter let the filings drop out and if non milky put back in beginning of adjacent flavour. Hope this helps good luck |
| #xviii | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted by jabryan Drain your tranny fluid and and then store it over winter allow the filings drop out and if not milky put back in commencement of next season. Promise this helps good luck Why would you put the oil back in? |
| #xix | |||
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| Well, the boat is winterized and nearly ready to exist put abroad. The last matter I tried was to check the oil in the leg for moisture. There is a big flathead scew at the bottom of the leg, only I could non get it to loosen off. I sprayed some wd-40 on information technology and still couldnt go it to dorsum off. I sure dont desire to strip it. Any suggestions? |
| #twenty | ||||
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| Quote: Originally Posted by curt7mm Well, the boat is winterized and almost ready to be put away. The last thing I tried was to check the oil in the leg for moisture. There is a large flathead scew at the bottom of the leg, only I could not become it to loosen off. I sprayed some wd-forty on information technology and nevertheless couldnt go it to dorsum off. I sure dont want to strip it. Any suggestions? Use the exact same size screwdriver to take information technology off. It will come up __________________ Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck |
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